When applied and maintained correctly, an F2 EcoHull coating lasts for 5 years or more, eliminating the need for annual repainting. F2 EcoHull works through physical rather than chemical action: its ultra-smooth surface prevents fouling and won't leach. With proper care, its performance remains intact even beyond this period. If you want to refresh the surface after 5 years, simply roll on a new layer of Top Coat. A complete coating overhaul is not required, and any damaged areas can easily be spot-repaired at any time.

F2 EcoHull is a fouling-release system, not a classic antifouling. Instead of killing fouling with biocides, the ultra-smooth surface prevents attachment physically. Three core advantages: biocide-, PFAS- and VOC-free, therefore usable without restriction in regulated waters. Service life of five years or more instead of annual repainting. And the smooth surface reduces hydrodynamic drag, which saves fuel and increases speed.

F2 EcoHull is suitable for motor boats, sailing boats, trailer boats and dinghies made of GRP (gelcoat), carbon, aluminium, steel, wood or PVC. It can be applied to the entire underwater area: hull, saildrive, rudder, through-hull fittings and trim tabs. For propellers and shafts, F2 OptiProp is the dedicated product. F2 performs best on regularly used boats, long lay-up periods can lead to light natural fouling.

No system guarantees 100% fouling-free hulls. F2 EcoHull prevents fouling from getting a foothold, the ultra-smooth, water-repellent surface offers nothing to grip on. How effectively F2 performs depends on how often the boat is used, the cruising speed and the area. Even at normal cruising speed light fouling releases, higher speeds from around 10 knots reinforce this effect. With long lay-up periods or in high-fouling areas, hard fouling can also develop, but it can always be wiped off without residue. One or several mid-season cleans are advisable depending on your usage profile.

F2 EcoHull does not require a separate approval. The system works physically through its smooth surface and contains no biocides, no copper and no PFAS. As a result it does not fall under the EU Biocidal Products Regulation in the first place, making it suitable for Lake Constance, Swiss lakes and other biocide-restricted waters, in both freshwater and saltwater. Freshwater fouling such as algae and mussels finds little purchase on the smooth surface. Light fouling releases at speed or wipes off. With long lay-up periods or in high-pressure fouling areas, harder fouling can also develop, but it removes without residue.

F2 needs a smooth, hard, dry and structurally sound substrate. The general recommendation is to remove the old antifouling completely, down to the underlying barrier primer. This gives you the ideal base for an F2 coating. Only if your old antifouling is still in perfect condition (smooth, intact, firmly adhered) is thorough sanding with P180 to P220 sufficient.

You need one litre per component per 10 m² of hull area. For the standard build-up (Primer + Adhesive Coat + Top Coat) you need roughly three litres of material per 10 m² of hull area. The exact kit size for your boat is determined by our hull area calculator in a few clicks. It also factors in your sailing area and usage profile and gives you a tailored recommendation.

Yes, for most DIY owners this is feasible if you follow the instructions exactly. Many of our customers coat their boat themselves. Plan around five days: preparation, primer, adhesive coat, top coat, drying times and rework around the cradle supports. It is more involved than painting classic antifouling, but you are painting for the last time in five years. For any professional boatyard the application is straightforward, the instructions are public.

The right roller is the most important tool. Use high-quality foam rollers with rounded edges, long-pile, velour, mohair or other common paint rollers are not suitable. Additional tools: orbital sander with sandpaper P60-P80 (coarse) and P180-P220 (fine), stirring attachment for the cordless drill, mixing cups, brushes for edges, masking tape, cloths, protective equipment. The F2 Application Set contains the matching rollers, handles and paint trays.

It depends on the hull condition. Over old antifouling (sanded or partially removed) you need F2 EcoPrimer as a conversion layer. On new or bare hulls (gelcoat, aluminium, steel, wood) F2 EcoPrimer is not the right product. F2 EcoHull itself is not an osmosis or corrosion barrier, so we recommend a 2K epoxy primer in three to five coats as a base layer.

Three waiting times are critical. Primer to Adhesive Coat: 4-6 hours touch-dry, maximum 24-hour window (after that, sand with P180-P220 and clean). Adhesive Coat to Top Coat: 4 hours, no maximum as long as the surface stays clean and dry. Top Coat to launch: at least 36 hours. Slight tackiness after application is normal and disappears in the water.

Air temperature 10 to 35 °C, surface temperature at least 3 °C above the dew point, humidity at most 90 percent. In spring a cool surface combined with damp morning air can produce invisible condensation, the hull sweats. Back-of-the-hand test: does the spot feel cool and damp? Then wait, usually until midday. F2 can be applied year-round as long as these conditions are met.

After application, F2 EcoHull needs eight to twelve weeks in the water to fully cure. Cleaning: soft brushes, sponges or cloths, never hard bristles or aggressive cleaners. When the boat is lifted, fouling can simply be removed with a pressure washer. For seasonal maintenance we recommend F2 EcoWash, which cleans the surface and extends its performance. Depending on your usage profile, one or several mid-season cleans are advisable.

Yes, F2 EcoHull repairs well. Damage stays locally contained, the surrounding coating continues to adhere, so you only need to repair the damaged spot and not rebuild the full area. Smaller patches under 5x5 cm are repaired with a fresh top coat layer, for larger areas you add an adhesive coat layer. The F2 EcoHull Repair Kit covers roughly 1 m² of repair area.