The secret behind F2 is Zeronic™, a hybrid polymer inspired by nature. It forms an ultra-smooth, water-repellent surface where fouling barely gains a hold and cleans off easily. The effect lasts for years.
We rebuilt our underwater ship in March. Four days in a row, one coat of Hempel Light Primer, the Adhesive Coat on the fifth day and the Top Coat on the sixth day, unfortunately without glitter.
After four weeks in the unheated hall, we went into the water on Fehmarn on April 17. Today, after six weeks in the Danish South Seas and only 110 nautical miles, brushed the hull from a dinghy for the first time to remove the considerable growth. It was very easy to remove from where I went. See pictures.
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Motoryacht Yolanda03/2026
Motor yachtNorth Sea
★★★★★
We applied f2eco last year may 2025 on our 24 mtr motoryacht Yolanda. We spent 3 summer months on the English South Coast upto Plymouth. After that we returned to freshwater in our home province Friesland in the Netherlands. Our typicsl speeds are in the 10 knots range. From November till now boat was onnits berth and not moving.We just drydocked March 2 2026 because of a replacement of propellorshaft besrings. We are very pleased with the f2 eco redults. There was a thin slime layer and some muscles and shells but the were very loosly adhered to the coating and very easy removed with a soft high pressure rinse.
The coating looks and feels in pristine conditions. A very few spots need some attention but I suspect preparation onbthose spots was not optimal.
All in all very pleased. We will now also apply the propellor protection from f2eco.
Ruurd and Yolanda Boomsma
Motoryacht Yolanda
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Julia02/2026
SailboatMediterranean
★★★★★
We coated our boat with F2 ECO a year ago because we wanted a durable and environmentally friendly anti-fouling solution. We have coated our CopperCoat with F2.
The application was simple and easy to do in pairs at 40 feet, because you can also divide the different layers over several days. We are very satisfied with the result, and after one year in the Mediterranean & Atlantic (Canary Islands), we can say that biocides are no longer needed. The fact that you jump into the water from time to time during the season to get your fuselage clean is no different from our previous CopperCoat. But with F2 ECO, you have the big advantage that the growth is not stuck, but can simply be wiped away. So you can't access it with a spatula, but with a soft brush. And that makes cleaning much easier and much faster!
In the meantime, we had to get out of the water once to repair the saildrive. On this occasion, we high-pressure cleaned the coating, which was possible without any problems. It still looks like new - even better, because it's now much harder than it was at the beginning.
We are very satisfied!
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Rudi11/2025
SailboatOther
★★★★★
I coated a 5 m long sail4peace dinghy with F2. When I pulled the boat out of Lake Neusiedl after 6 months, I washed off the muddy film with a high-pressure cleaner in 10 minutes. The coating is as good as new! I'm happy with F2! Hello Rudi
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Carsten11/2025
Motor yachtMediterranean
★★★★★
Our boat (Jeanneau Prestige 46) is located in the Croatian Adriatic, Dalmatia. In 2023, we had the antifouling rebuilt with International Micron 350. In preparation for F2 antifouling, the old antifouling was sanded to the fuselage and completely removed from shafts, propellers, trim tabs and rudder blades. All parts were then cleaned with the cleaning agent in accordance with the instructions and painted with a roller. The primer was easy to apply, the other two layers had the consistency of honey, which was very laborious. With an area of around 65m², the two of us needed around 12 hours per shift. For the colorless last coat, it was very useful that we had chosen mica interspersion, otherwise it would have been difficult to see where the paint had already been painted. However, when the sun shines on it, the boat looks like a disco ball;) .For people who wear glasses, please note: the splashes from the last layer cannot be removed from the glasses! I still have them on today - 8 months later. When lifted into water, the coating was damaged at the corners by the travel lift straps despite drying for 48 hours, even though we had placed a film between them. This will then have to be revised next spring.
After 8 weeks, we were back on the boat, with almost no buildup. Greenish slime at the water pass level was easy to wipe away with a sponge, as were small flat mussels. Driving at higher speeds (30kt) didn't make it go away. A further 12 weeks later, there were significantly more of the small flat mussels, but they could also be wiped away. I used a wooden spatula from the galley, which was the fastest, about 1 hour. There was almost nothing at the keel, it grew more upwards, most of it just below the water pass. It was our last vacation in October, when some mussels had set in again, but it is always only one type. Let's see what the boat looks like next spring. I can already imagine that everything goes well with the high-pressure cleaner.
While the adhesion of the old antifouling to the fuselage has been very good so far, the material holds very poorly on the metal parts. However, F2 had already said this before, unfortunately the material for these parts was not ready in time. Here I really hope for the new propeller kit. Finally, I have been very satisfied with the coating so far. By October at the latest, I already had clearly visible growth on my trunk.
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Holger11/2025
SailboatBaltic
★★★★★
I used 25 F2 on my Bavaria 34 in April. I followed the recommendation only to sand the old antifouling (self-polishing copper cruise from Epifanes) and remove loose areas. Applying in three coats was largely unproblematic, except that it was not so clear to me from the description that there was only a narrow time window for application between the first and second coat. This messed up my schedule in the short term. At the beginning of May, we went into the water of the Trave. Smallpox is very high there. In mid-June, I checked the underwater ship by diving. The entire hull was full of smallpox and the boat had also become noticeably slower under engine and under sail. However, the smallpox did not stick very firmly, so that I was able to remove it largely within an hour with a sponge or a rope carried tight under the boat. Overall, it was still pretty exhausting in the water, as the water temperature was only 17 degrees. For the rest of the season, the boat was in the Swedish archipelago and on the inland waters of the Göta Canal. In Sweden, I had the underwater ship cleaned again with a ship washing system (this type of cleaning is not necessarily recommended for sailboats), but this would not have been absolutely necessary. Repeated diving only ever showed slight growth, which was easy to wipe off. The boat came out of the water in mid-October. There was no smallpox on the trunk. However, there were slimy, circular deposits on the entire underwater ship (except the keel, which was almost free of adhesions) which could be easily removed with an ice scraper or a high-pressure cleaner. The underwater ship was so smooth at the end of the season that my boat was almost the fastest boat on Lübeck Bay on 3/10, faster than many larger boats.
Recommendation F2 applied to the sanded old antifouling was negative. Other larger areas of the old antifouling were removed later on, so that the underwater ship looked partially like a rag rug after processing with the high-pressure cleaner. This will require a lot of rework next spring.
Conclusion: F2 does not prevent buildup. However, these are easy to remove. Next year I will try to briefly get the boat out of the water with a crane in mid-June and briefly spray it down with a high-pressure cleaner. However, a cost-effective crane is a prerequisite. Otherwise, dive again.
In any case, it is no worse than biocide-containing antifouling and if it actually lasts at least 5 years, it does less work and is also more cost-effective.
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S.F.10/2025
SailboatOther
★★★★★
Wow! I am super impressed. Compared to the traditional anti-foulings I have used before, this is a real game changer.
Firstly, boat speed has increased by approximately 0.75 knots ~15%. I have even managed to win individual ‘round the cans’ sailing races and my division for the season series. In addition, I have won my first handicap offshore race (against much more modern & bigger yachts) and came 3rd in another - not done that before in this boat! Boat speed has remained high through the season; I used a ‘Scrubbis’ sponge to clean the hull whilst in the water. Fuel consumption has also improved but a bit more difficult to quantify as I don’t use much.
Secondly, at haul out, whilst there was slime over the hull (as expected), there was no ‘beard’ of weed as in previous years. In addition, any very limited hard grow was super easy to move with my fingers. Whilst on the hull, any hard growth hadn’t adhered to the coating. The shaft and prop were treated with a traditional anti-foul and this had heavy barnacle and weed growth, needing a metal scraper to remove. In the photograph you can see the clear difference between the prop and shaft to the ‘P’ bracket with its F2 Eco coating.
The boatyard pressure washed the hull, with the slime and any very limited hard coming off really easily. The hull returned to the before launch condition with the water once more beading off the clean hull!
Overall I am very impressed!
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Anonym10/2025
RIB/TenderMediterranean
★★★★★
I use F2 on our the hull of our rib and what should i say, i love it. After on season as on the firts day.
What makes F2 different from conventional antifouling?
F2 EcoHull is a fouling-release system, not a classic antifouling. Instead of killing fouling with biocides, the ultra-smooth surface prevents attachment physically. Three core advantages: biocide-, PFAS- and VOC-free, therefore usable without restriction in regulated waters. Service life of five years or more instead of annual repainting. And the smooth surface reduces hydrodynamic drag, which saves fuel and increases speed.
Which boat types and hull materials is F2 suitable for?
F2 EcoHull is suitable for motor boats, sailing boats, trailer boats and dinghies made of GRP (gelcoat), carbon, aluminium, steel, wood or PVC. It can be applied to the entire underwater area: hull, saildrive, rudder, through-hull fittings and trim tabs. For propellers and shafts, F2 OptiProp is the dedicated product. F2 performs best on regularly used boats, long lay-up periods can lead to light natural fouling.
How much F2 do I need for my boat?
You need one litre per component per 10 m² of hull area. For the standard build-up (Primer + Adhesive Coat + Top Coat) you need roughly three litres of material per 10 m² of hull area. The exact kit size for your boat is determined by our hull area calculator in a few clicks. It also factors in your sailing area and usage profile and gives you a tailored recommendation.
Is F2 EcoHull approved for biocide-restricted waters?
F2 EcoHull does not require a separate approval. The system works physically through its smooth surface and contains no biocides, no copper and no PFAS. As a result it does not fall under the EU Biocidal Products Regulation in the first place, making it suitable for Lake Constance, Swiss lakes and other biocide-restricted waters, in both freshwater and saltwater. Freshwater fouling such as algae and mussels finds little purchase on the smooth surface. Light fouling releases at speed or wipes off. With long lay-up periods or in high-pressure fouling areas, harder fouling can also develop, but it removes without residue.
How long does F2 EcoHull really last?
When applied and maintained correctly, an F2 EcoHull coating lasts for 5 years or more, eliminating the need for annual repainting. F2 EcoHull works through physical rather than chemical action: its ultra-smooth surface prevents fouling and won't leach. With proper care, its performance remains intact even beyond this period. If you want to refresh the surface after 5 years, simply roll on a new layer of Top Coat. A complete coating overhaul is not required, and any damaged areas can easily be spot-repaired at any time.
Do I need to remove my old antifouling?
F2 needs a smooth, hard, dry and structurally sound substrate. The general recommendation is to remove the old antifouling completely, down to the underlying barrier primer. This gives you the ideal base for an F2 coating. Only if your old antifouling is still in perfect condition (smooth, intact, firmly adhered) is thorough sanding with P180 to P220 sufficient.
Will my hull really stay fouling-free with F2?
No system guarantees 100% fouling-free hulls. F2 EcoHull prevents fouling from getting a foothold, the ultra-smooth, water-repellent surface offers nothing to grip on. How effectively F2 performs depends on how often the boat is used, the cruising speed and the area. Even at normal cruising speed light fouling releases, higher speeds from around 10 knots reinforce this effect. With long lay-up periods or in high-fouling areas, hard fouling can also develop, but it can always be wiped off without residue. One or several mid-season cleans are advisable depending on your usage profile.